Hasaki

Since 1984, simple, casual Hasaki has delighted lovers of traditional Japanese cuisine. And now that Takino is a thing of the past, Hasaki is one of the few places where you can order tempura-by-the-piece: gingko nuts, shishito peppers and much more. A rock shrimp/mitsuba tempura is often on the daily special menu, and it's highly recommended. Also delicious is the unsauced fried white eel.

One of my favorite ways to enjoy Hasaki is the $20 "twilight dinner," which is only served until 6:30. Last night, I was about to order the grilled salmon in miso-basil sauce, but I also craved the excellent tempura. The twilight dinner was the perfect solution! This very filling meal included: rich red miso soup with tiny tofu cubes, a mesclun/frisee salad with creamy miso dressing, cold grilled eggplant, sliced crunchy lotus root, hijiki tofu salad, a luscious square of rich, fatty, salt-crusted grilled salmon, delicately sliced salmon, tuna and whitefish sashimi, and a healthy portion of tempura - two jumbo shrimp, a shrimp ball, shishito peppers, eggplant and carrot! And to top all of this off, there was a beautiful dessert plate of intricately sliced melon, orange and kiwi.

I bet Hasaki will be around for another 23 years!

Hasaki: 210 East 9th St., (212) 473-3327.